FINDING OPUS
Update, January, 2007. Donna, Neill and Tesla are spending the winter in sub-tropical Rhode Island, and Etude is on stands on the hard. More on this as we catch up. My apologies for the dislocations in layout -- the blog publisher shows something different from what I enter into the work space. Maddening! Thanks for reading, and please leave some comments.
Berke Breathed
Losing the dinghy is a kick in the stomach. Our boat moves us from place to place, but the dinghy is our ‘wheels’ in the harbor or anchorage. Without it we have to rent a dock space or 'slip' at $45 to $100 per night, pay a taxi at $5-10 a pop, or we're stuck on the boat. We are depressed for a week, and lose that much time from our already too-short window for cruising in Maine. To begin the search for a new Opus, we are directed to Hamilton Marine, a local ‘chain’ of four stores. They have the best rowing supplies, good prices, and a beautiful fiberglass 10’6
Despite the dinghy depression, Portland is one of our favorite cities. With few really tall buildings, light penetrates to the streets, and there is no highway dividing the town. An interesting mix of the old and the new makes it a joy to bike or walk around. Donna’s mom Nancy and brother Len join us as we visit an LL Bean outlet store. Donna really enjoys the Historical Society museum, featuring a fun exhibit on ‘things ordinary people collect’.
On Thursday September 14, Portland recedes in the distance. Etude is joyfully bound for the ‘heart of Maine cruising’, Penobscot Bay and Mt. Desert Island. This leg features two days of light sailing and motoring, and a one day layover in Boothbay Harbor.
Meanwhile, back at the boat…the GPS will not boot up. The local electronics techie is in his shop and available on a Saturday morning. Really! After about a half hour of tracing wires, he finds a switch half hidden below the autopilot wheel. ‘Try that.’ Oooh yeah! Great! Neill is still unable to grasp the need for three different ways to turn off the GPS.
We ask people about food: everybody says ‘go to Conte’s’. This is a totally funky, Italian seafood joint smack on the waterfront. The outside is this chaotic jumble from a lobsterman’s shack, and the inside décor is more of the same. (We walked by it four times without being aware that it was a restaurant.) Patrons order from a floor-to-ceiling hand drawn menu at the hostess’ desk, then stand there until their table is ready, complete with salads. New arrivals are backed up out the door, where they get to entertain the talkative young hound tied outside. That can be fun -- until some folks come with a ‘guide-dog in training’. But the food is outstanding. We’ll be back.
Tesla likes to hide out in some deep far part
of the boat during the day. She emerges at
dusk to make her rounds of the deck, then
she sits on the cockpit coaming surveying
the night sights.
Penobscot Bay
Trying to catch and tie onto a mooring, get ashore, return, and possibly spend the night in these conditions – this prospect is not appealing. The Hamilton office suggests Belfast, five miles east, as an alternative. We haven’t looked at it, and have no idea how this will work. But it looks good in the guide book and the chart . It’s a hard, close reach, but proves to be a well-sheltered harbor. It’s too late to get the dinghy today.
Belfast, Sept. 18. The harbormistress offers us the off-season rate of $20 for a dock slip. This is a beautiful little town on a hill (…yet another charming…), with a natural food co-op, a stunning huge library, and no highway running thru town. It does not think of itself as a tourist attraction. Serendipity.
O P U S II Donna Likes Her New Oars
The next day, Wednesday, our dinghy is delivered to the dock at Belfast. Donna and Neill try rowing tandem, but the setup isn’t quite right. Donna finds the boat easier to row than the late Opus I.
A ‘Community Rowing’ Gig, a Bigger Boat
Coming soon: Belfast to Blue Hill and Southwest Harbor
Labels: Finding Opus